Fast-Footwear

With a wider and more diverse product selection, low-cost footwear (or fast-footwear if you will) company ABC-Mart marked their sixth straight year of record profits. Year ending 2009 saw an increase of 25% to 24.5 billion yen. Women’s shoes at ABC-Mart increased by 30% due to sales of casual boots and heeled sneakers, with men’s shoes seeing an increase in casual leather footwear of 20%.


Reflecting the fashion-apparel market’s turn to fast-fashion, the shoe market has also been affected by the recession and frugal customer spending with consumers now turning to fast-footwear. With Fast Retailing already in the mix, expect other brands to expand into the fast-footwear category very soon.

Japan Fashion Week - Coming Soon to a Venue Near You

With Japan Fashion week starting next month, organizers have been busy promoting this year's JFW as the "10th Japan Fashion Week in Tokyo". The collection shows which begin on Monday 22 March 2010 (a holiday no less) will feature 45 collections including the likes of Mikio Sakabe, The Dress & Co.'s Hideaki Sakaguchi, Shueh Jen-Fang, and Chaolu Lab's Satoshi Hiramoto, all of them who successfully previewed their lines in SoHo, NY in an trendy loft just last week. With the previews and promotions JFW is working hard to make this their 10th Japan Fashion Week a huge success.

Fast Company's Top 10 Innovative Fashion Companies

Fast Company announced their Top Ten Innovative Fashion Companies and guess who came in at number two?  Fast Retailing.  It's no secret Fast Retailing the owner of Uniqlo, UJ & GU is conquering the world country by country, store by store, with their high quality fashion apparel & accessories at discount prices.  Below are the rest of the Top Ten Innovative Fashion Companies named by Fast Company.

1 – Gilt Groupe

2 – Fast Retailing

3 – Net-a-Porter.com

4 – Timberland

5 – Dualstar

6 – Norma Kamali

7 – Fluevog

8 – Stella McCartney

9 – Coach

10 – FesslerUSA

Sonia Rykiel at H&M

160 diehard fashion fans stood in line on Saturday 20 February at the Shibuya H&M vying to get their piece of Sonia Rykiel’s new knitwear collaboration line with H&M. As pieces were expected to go quickly, shoppers ran and pushed to get a hold of the colorful, limited edition merchandise, the second Sonia Rykiel collaboration with H&M following her lingerie collaboration last year. Popular items included a striped sweater, striped scarf, and rhinestone leggings.

This is the second collaboration for Sonia Rykiel with H&M and follows many successful collaborations in the past between high-street fashion and the fast-fashion giant. Previous collaborations include Karl Lagerfeld (2004) Stella McCartney (2005), Viktor & Rolf (2006), Roberto Cavalli (2007) and Rei Kawakubo of the Japanese label Comme des Garçons (Fall 2008) and Jimmy Choo and Matthew Williamson in 2009.

Even More Bad News for Japan Department Stores

With over 30 months of declining sales for Japan’s department stores, there is more bad news. According to an online survey by Nikkei Inc. Survey, 58% of shoppers have cut back on department store visits in 2009 compared to 2006, with 63% of them blaming prices. These price, yet fashion conscious shoppers are now shifting their loyalties to fast-fashion. Out of the 63% cutting back on visiting department stores, 41.8% are now shopping at Fast Retailing’s Uniqlo and 22.55 are shopping at outlet malls including 15.4% at Shimamura Co., who are quickly expanding in Japan.


As fast-fashion companies continue to adapt to Japanese consumer’s latest priorities, Japan’s department stores continue to maintain the status quo and hope for the best. In this current economy and with Japanese consumers becoming smarter and more mature, this is simply not enough if the department stores ever want to get out of the red.

Marc Jacobs 2010 Spring/Summer & Resort

This past Saturday upon entering the Marc Jacobs shop in Matsuya in Ginza I was greeted by a colorful and fun resort collection, a playful ambiance and very friendly shop staff. While I sipped my complimentary apple-ginger juice served in a champagne flute, I and others watched the 2010 Spring/Summer Women’s RTW collection video, and as a first in one of Marc Jacobs' largest shop-in-shops in Japan, you are now able to buy the women’s RTW collection. Up until Saturday the 40 sqm Marc Jacobs shop in Matsuya Ginza sold only handbags, accessories and small leather goods, but now you can peruse and purchase RTW and ACC pieces from the full line.

You can purchase the Marc Jacobs 2010 Spring/Summer and Resort line at 3-6-1 Ginza, Chuo-Ku, Tokyo 104-8130. And while you’re there don’t forget your complimentary apple-ginger juice.

Run Tokyo Run!

Should be the slogan for the new Adidas concept store which is targeting the consumer-on-the-run so to speak. Adidas Runbase opened near the Imperial Palace, a popular running venue for Tokyo's runners. The concept store will carry apparel, running shoes and accessories for running as well as rent out equipment and shower facilities for those running during lunch or who just need a shower. Customers can also customize their own running shoe with shop staff, tailoring the shoe to the exact shape and size of their foot.  Adidas Runbase will also hold running clinics for those just beginning or looking to improve their running skills.

You can find the Adidas Runbase by running to Hirakawa-cho, Chiyoda-ku, Mori Tower, 16-1, Hirakawa-cho 2-chome.

Demand for Swiss Watches still low in Japan

With the demand for Swiss watches in the rest of the world slowly growing - in Japan the demand is still low. As worldwide growth increased 3.7% for the first time in January after 14 months of decline, Japan is still experiencing a decline for their 15th straight month. Will the 1 million yen watch return to the wrists of the Japanese consumer soon?

More Bad News for Japan Department Stores

According to the Japan Department Store Association for the 23rd straight month Japanese department sales have decreased by 5.7% to 570 billion yen.  Apparel sales of the country’s more than 270 department stores fell in January due to the continued weakness of the Japanese economy.  Once a powerhouse of sales and fashion trends Japan's department stores have become stale and irrelevant and with more brands opening flagship stores and consumers turning to fast-fashion brands and fast-fashion malls, the slow and painful decline of Japan's department stores sees no end in sight.

Young Women's Fashion - No Longer Recession Proof

What once was though to be a recession immune category in fashion – youth apparel, specifically young women’s apparel is now also experiencing a decrease in sales and increase competition from fast-fashion companies.


Young women’s brands like Cecil McBee, Egoist, Moussy, Ravijour, Love Girls Market and many other Japanese brands targeting young women are experiencing their first decrease in sales in years. Shibuya 109 which caters to young women and has 8 floors of shopping is experiencing their first sales decrease in 14 years, according to one in employee of TMD Corp, the mall operator.

With the recession taking it’s toll on family incomes there is less pocket money for the high school and university students and now there are more options for what money is left, i.e., online shopping and fast-fashion brands H&M, Top Shop and Forever 21 which are less expensive, fashionable and trendy.

Besides Shibuya 109, other fashion malls are also experiencing their first decline in sales in years, i.e., Osaka’s Shinsaibashi Opa, Parco and Lumine – all targeting young females – with less discretionary income and spending for Japanese youth and more competition from fast fashion being cited as the reasons.

With fast-fashion brands and now fast-fashion malls like Shimamura expanding the Japanese youth are now catching up with the rest of Japan’s consumers in dressing for less.

Another Brand Escapes from Renown

Leilian, the latest brand to leave Renown Corporation, is now the latest brand to join Itochu Fashion System Co. Ltd. Like Rebecca Taylor before it, Leilian joined Itochu Fashion System Co. Ltd., on 15 January 2010. For Leilian, a Japanese brand specializing in women's RTW & ACC, being sold to Itochu Fashion System Co. Ltd., will give it much needed investment and allow it to expand the brand in Japan with new store openings. The sale of Leilian by Renown will bring Renown one step closer to the dissolution of their apparel subsidiary which will be completely liquidated by 28 February 2010.

Lumine Closes in Ikebukuro and Opens in Ikebukuro

With improving sales, Lumine will close their Lumine Metropolitan Plaza Shopping Center in Nishi Ikebukuro on Wednesday 31 March and on the next day Thursday 1 April will open their new Lumine building in Ikebukuro.  Lumine, majority owned by East Japan Railway Co (JR East), acquired the shopping center business of Ikebukuro Terminal Building Co Ltd (Ikebukuro Terminal), and will open the shopping center in terminal building B.  Lumine's report of increased sales and acquisition of the Ikebukuro Terminal Building is good news in an otherwise gloomy outlook for department stores in Japan. 

G-Star: It doesn't get any more Raw than this

G-Star Raw is finding out its tough selling premium-denim in a discount-denim ruled market. Amidst a shake up at corporate offices in Amsterdam and with decreasing sales in Japan, G-Star has made the bold move of discounting some of their denim lines up to 40% in Japan. With competition from discount-denim brands and even among premium-denim retailers will this price cut be enough for G-Star not to go the way of Miss Sixty?

Fast Retailing's UJ Brand

Expanding their share in the discount-denim market Fast Retailing is launching their new UJ brand.  Fast Retailing already accounts for over 10% of the denim market in Japan, selling over 10 million pair of jeans per year.  The UJ brand will consist of all Fast Retailing jeans and have prices ranging from 1,000 yen up to 3,990 yen, with basic jeans priced at 1,990 yen.  Fast Retailing is always focused on having price equal quality and this time they will try to compete with denim selling from 10,000 yen by saving costs through production. 

United Arrows' Profits Grow

United Arrows embraced this year's collections and the collections returned the embrace by helping UA's same-store-sales (retail and online) in January increase by 6.2%. Although a majority of January's sales can be attributed to sale merchandise of fall/winter items such as men's puffer jackets, knitwear, shirts and women's long cardigans, knit dresses and knitwear, the spring/summer collection also sold strong with men's trench coats and leather jackets and women's dresses and blouses proving popular among early spring/summer shoppers.

Barney's New York in Kobe

Continuing their expansion in Japan, Barney's New York will open their fourth location in Kobe on Friday 5 March. The new Barney's Kobe store in Motomachi will be three floors and cover 2,800 sqm. The Kobe store opening is their first in Kansai and will be followed by a fifth Barney's store in Fukuoka's fashionable and stylish Tenjin by 2012 as well as new locations in Osaka and Nagoya. Barney's New York currently operated by Sumitomo Corporation has 3 other store locations in Shinjuku, Ginza and Yokohama.

Barney's New York Kobe Store
25, 24-2, Kyomachi, Cyuo-ku, Kobe-shi

Fast-Fashion: Another Player Enters the Market

As fast-fashion continues dominate the fashion market, more and more companies are entering, whether it is for some quick yen or to really build a brand based on Japanese consumers' new priorities.

The newest player to enter the market is I.T.'S International Company; a consortium of six companies who will enter the market competing not only on price but also on quality. The six companies that make up I.T.'S International are Sumikin Bussan Corp., N.I. Teijin Shoji Co., Teijin Fibers Ltd., Kurabo Industries Ltd., Hong Kong-based knitwear producer Fenix Hong Kong Ltd., and an apparel planning firm.

I.T.'S International's strategy is creating their niche between fast-fashion and high-end department stores by selling high-end department stores goods at fast-fashion prices, i.e., a coordinate top that would sell at a high-end department store for 20,000 yen will sell at I.T.'S International for less than 5,000 yen. I.T.'S International will open their first store in Harajuku on Friday 19 February near H&M and Forever 21.

Levi Strauss: A Look Forward

Levi Strauss, once a strong player in the Japan denim-market has watched as their sales have declined over the last several years. As more retail chains release discount denim lines and increase sales, i.e., Uniqlo, G.U., Edwin, etc…Levis reported yet another net loss for the year ended November 2009. Looking to expand their network of retail shops and sales, Levi has entered into a partnership with Aoyama Trading Co., who is also looking to expand in the casual market, to open and operate Levi’s franchise stores. With the first store opening in Nagoya in March and the next in Nara in April, Aoyama Trading Co., plans to open additional stores if demand and sales are high, as well Levis plans on restructuring their wholesale business and increasing their retail business by opening up an additional 150 Levi’s direct-owned stores by the end of 2015.

Nakata "X"

Japanese soccer star Nakata, Hidetoshi has been chosen to represent the new Calvin Klein underwear line "X".  Nakata, who wears designer clothes and can often be seen at fashion runway shows, is among 3 other racially and nationally diverse models representing X, a first time for a Calvin Klein underwear campaign.  The other 3 models are American actor Kellan Lutz of Twilight fame, American actor Mechad Brooks and Spanish tennis star Fernando Verdasco.  All four models will appear separately in globally coordinated advertisements for the X line which will debut in stores this month.  Photographed in NY, this global campaign is the most ambitious for Calvin Klein underwear and will include black & white photography, digital videos, 3D, Webcams, QR, social networking sites, TV, Taxis, outdoor and print media that can be seen from 1 March.  The models were chosen to represent the talent in the most important markets for Calvin Klein; US, Europe and Asia.  After a successful career in soccer will this be the start of a new career for Nakata - modeling?

Edwin Reigns in Discount Denim

In a competitive and saturated market with flat sales, Edwin Co. has done what no one else has - they have successfully combined product design and functionality with price, and now have the top 5 selling jeans in Japan. Beating out Fast Retailing's Uniqlo, G.U. and other retail chains Edwin has used innovation to give the consumer what they want in a discount jean. Coming in at number one is Edwin's 503 Wild Fire jeans, a cold weather product made to keep you warm through a triple-layer design featuring denim on the outside, a wind breaker material in the middle and a fabric in the lining - all with a checkered-pattern finish. The number two and four ranked jeans are the 403 Soft-Flex jeans and 403 Regular Straight pants which have both been in the market for up to 30 years and have found success through constantly improving their designs and attracting repeat customers. In at number three is the Basic 403 Mobile jeans that have a keitai pocket on the right thigh, as customers have complained that a keitai in a regular pocket changes the shape of the jeans. Following up at number five is the Basic 406 Tight Straight jeans that are super skinny and are currently a must have among Japanese youth.

What all these jeans have in common are new functions and designs as well as being made in Japan, unlike other jeans that are produced overseas. With the "Made in Japan" label Edwin is able to ensure product quality as well as encourage innovation thereby gaining the consumers trust of reliability.

With fast-fashion still leading the way it is truly going to be the company that is most innovative in terms of design, price and quality and are able to adapt to the ever-changing preferences of consumers that will reign supreme. In denim at the moment this is Edwin.

Uniqlo's Sale Decrease in January

After an 11.5%  increase in same store sales in December 2009, Fast Retailing's Uniqlo experienced their first decrease in sales in over one year.  Same store comparative sales for January fell 7.2% due to positive sales from marked down inventory of their Fall/Winter merchandise, including Heattech garments and knitwear.  This should not be worrying to Fast Retailing nor the industry as this one month decrease for Uniqlo should just be that - their sales will rebound strong as consumers begin shopping for Spring/Summer.

Underwear that’s Fun To-Wear

Today Body Wild (part of Gunze Ltd.) is opening their first flagship shop in Harajuku on Cat Street. The store totaling 178 sqm will be 3 floors. You can buy your boxers off the rack at a cost of 1,050 yen each with over 100 different colors to choose from or order custom-made boxers from 2,100 yen for 1 pair or 3,150 yen for 2 pairs also with over 100 colors to choose from as well as 100 different waistbands and 100 different pockets allowing for 1 million different combinations. In addition to their online sales, Gunze Ltd. plans on opening 10 more stores over the next 3 years in Tokyo and Osaka with sales forecasted to reach 2.7 billion yen.

Kate Moss for Longchamp

It's now been eight seasons since Kate Moss became the face of Longchamp and now together with Longchamp she is taking the next step in their successful relationship with the new collection "Kate Moss for Longchamp".  The line is unique as it is entirely designed by Kate herself under the Longchamp global umbrella.  Defined and inspired by her passion and experiences in fashion and her personal life Kate thought about what she wanted in a bag, what would be all encompassing to her and other women and what she came up with is something truly special - a collection based off of her personal vision and reflecting her inimitable fashion flair with Longchamp's timeless craftsmanship.

The Ladbroke, a slouchy, hug-me hobo bag (pictured above) is in supple grained calfskin, in black or nude, and has a curvaceous shape punctuated by metal eyelets and bold diagonal zippers with swinging leather tags that exude an insouciant grace.  Like all the collection's monochrome bags, the Ladbroke opens to reveal a racy zebra-print lining and the Kate Moss for Longchamp label, while the Longchamp signature alone is embossed on the outside.

Other bags include the Golborne shopper, also in black or nude grained calfskin.  Its relaxed style appeals to women of all ages, the world over. With its wide zippered opening, adjustable shoulder straps and inside compartments, the Golborne is the perfect home-to-office bag, as functional as it is fashionable.

The Glastonbury, meanwhile, is a soft, easy messenger in pale grey suede, nude or black in a combination of suede and smooth calfskin, with embellished lambskin braiding, zippers and eyelets.

For the Gloucester duffle bag, it is inspired by vintage trunks with their wide straps and heavy metal buckles and has naturally grained cowhide; it comes in classic black, grey and tan, plus a favorite of Kate's - vibrant red. The Gloucester bag is also available as a limited edition in zebra-styled calfskin with black cowhide trim.

Additionally, no collection would be complete without a clutch.  Drawing on her personal experience from the red carpet, Kate focused on functionality, which is why the Sohoclutch has a transformable slender strap enabling it to be carried in three ways: on the shoulder, dangling nonchalantly from the wrist, or - with the strap removed – as a clutch.  In shagreen-styled calfskin in stunning emerald, chic nude or dark grey, finished with sophisticated tonal edging and subtle rivet and eyelet detail, the Sohoclutch also comes in limited-edition zebra-styled calfskin.

In Japan the collection will first go on sale at Isetan on 17 February and then roll-out in March, with Autumn/Winter 2010 already in the works.

For more information or inquiries, please contact Longchamp Japan K.K. Customer Service
Tel 0120-150-116 www.longchamp.com

A Little Self Promotion

Here is a link to a very good article regarding Forever 21's  Japan expansion.  I was quoted for this piece and would like to thank Lydia Dishman for her excellent article and for including my comment.  Please check out more of Lydia Dishman's work at Bnet.com.

Japan Street-Style: Spontaneous or Fake?

Opening one of the countless fashion magazines in Japan you will shortly come across the numerous street-style pictures depicting young and fashionable Japanese spontaneously stopped and photographed by similarly young and fashionable magazine camera crews throughout Japan-metro areas.  The outfits worn by these young fashionistas range from the "I love that outfit" to "What were they thinking"?  But is it really spontaneous?  This is what went through my mind this weekend as I walked through Harajuku.  According to one industry stylist "the whole street-style thing is sort of like a job, it’s all planned and thought up in advance; it’s not as though these young fashionistas just “happen” to run into the magazine camera crews".  Outfits are prepared in advance with the young fashionistas seeking out the fashion magazine camera crews in hopes of being photographed.  Does the lack of spontaneity kill the street-style romance?